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Responsible Skiing in Bulgaria?

 

What do you picture when you think of a winter holiday in Bulgaria? Perhaps somewhere a bit cheap and cheerful?   Somewhere with rather a lot of building work going on?   That you might get pressured to buy an apartment? Maybe somewhere that’s ok for beginners but not good skiers?

Me too.

I have to say that much of the above is sadly true. On my recent trip to Bulgaria, I visited the three key resorts of Pamporovo, Bansko and Borovets and yes – particularly for us exchange-rate challenged Brits – it was relatively cheap.   There were lots of apartments unfinished and for sale (though no-one tried to sell me one) but there was no actual building work going on – the recession has put a stop to that.   The piste skiing was – well – yes, better suited to beginners and intermediates.

In fact, there was a certain sadness about the ski resorts.   They were developed on a model similar to that which was successful for many resort developers in the United States - based on real estate sales.   That model, so dependent on a buoyant economy, has shown its flaws. It has resulted in the loss of a lot of land, ghost towns of unsold apartments that even when sold would have remained empty for much of the time and probably a fairly ‘bland’ international experience with ‘enclaves’ of tourists kept separate from the villages and locals. 

Additionally, there are disputes locally about the boundaries of the ski resorts and national parks and Unesco is considering withdrawing its Biosphere accreditation for the uniqueness of national park around Bansko as the developers cut into and destroyed centuries old forests.

Not really Responsible Skiing is it?

However, what I am really pleased to report is that there is a completely different side to Bulgaria – which Lubomir Popiordanov of www.odysseia-in.com shared with me.   He is also the chairman of the Alternative Tourism Association and has developed a guidebook of small, characterful, family run hotels and is involved with an NGO dedicated to the sustainable development of a hut in the Balkan Mountain Range.   A fine person to show me round the ‘other’ side of Bulgaria.

And what did I find?

Well, firstly some fabulous family run hotels where you are treated to some wonderful local delicacies – and the food is delicious – though it’s probably a good thing I didn’t stay too long – I was in danger of getting seriously addicted to Bulgarian bread! And in case you were thinking the standard might be lacking – definitely not so – all were spotless with modern bathrooms and seriously comfortable beds and one even had a wellness area – very Austrian.  

Secondly, wonderful hospitality from everyone I met – keen to share the beauty and potential of their country – and their plum brandy!  

Thirdly, some beautiful landscapes – wild and untouched – unlike some regions of the Alps that are almost overmanaged for tourism. 

Fourthly, snowshoeing – a wonderful way to explore the mountains – in peace and away from the hoards and ski touring for the more adventurous. 

Fifthly, a culture that I knew nothing about; from the Thracians to the icon artists who pre-empted the Renaissance to the ornately decorated churches. 

Sixthly, some wonderful taverns down cobbled streets with regional food and richly decorated local pottery. 

Seventhly – is that a word? Well, I could go on and on.... 

Now we’re talking Responsible Skiing – Bulgaria has so much potential and so much to delight the international traveller in search of the authentic and so much to offer for a real winter holiday.

 

Veronica Tonge

 

Founder of ResponsibleSkiing.com, dedicated to ensuring that people have a great winter holiday experience – whilst treasuring the mountain environment:-)

 

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